I am a Pisces. Two fish swimming in opposite directions. Now that you know this about me, it should come as no surprise that I have always had a love of all things from the sea. I firmly believe in mermaids and an octopus was the first thing I ever drew as a child. I make jewelry from sea shells I collect and I adore spending vacations near the water. When visiting tropical places, I spend the majority of my meals eating the freshest seafood I can find. Seafood, that I simply cannot find back in my land-locked cowtown of Kansas City, until now . . .
I have always been on the hunt for a real fish monger in Kansas City. I think most of us have. We complain about it on Chowhound, ask other foodies when we are a dinner parties where they shop for fish and we even quiz our favorite Chefs about where we can find fresh seafood at retail in Kansas City. (Hopefully, someplace that does not decorate it's fish counter like something from Sponge Bob Squarepants, or plays a sound track of seagulls circling overhead when I am placing my order.)
After much debate, we all seem to give each other the same recommendation. Whole Foods or Costco are always named as the two places to buy seafood in Kansas City. Both, of course, are mentioned because they do have a decent selection of seafood that most of us have bought and enjoyed at some point. Whole Foods has some pretty knowledgeable guys behind their fish counter than can answer most of your questions, and Costco has bulk seafood that looks fresh. It's what we don't know, that I wonder about. We really don't know how long the fish had to travel to reach either of these national chain stores, and we have no idea how long the fish have been sitting in the case waiting to be sold either.
I can't explain it, but there is something missing from the experience of buying fish at these places. You always walk away from the counter with a little nagging doubt in your mind. I think that is when the passion of a true fish monger would really aid in your seafood buying experience. Someone who really knows where the fish came from, wild or farm-raised, sustainable or not, how long it's been out and perhaps even tips on how to cook it. I am looking for someone who really loves fish and could talk about fish to me for hours.
And call me crazy, but unless you speak fluent Chinese, I would not recommend buying fish from our Asian markets in town. There is a reason those markets smell the way they do. I love to shop them for everything, but seafood. I don't think that those markets are buying their seafood from local suppliers. Nor do I think they do enough volume or have the right clientele to merit getting in the highest quality fish. You want to be able to ask some questions when buying fish, impossible to do if you do not speak the language.
On my quest for good seafood in town, Chefs had told me that many of our local grocery stores and restaurants get their fish locally from supplier, Seattle Fish Company. Headquartered in Denver, they opened a regional office here in Kansas City in 2003, right next to Knuckleheads Saloon on the east side of town. The Seattle Fish Company is a family run, third generation business that is over 90 years old. They obviously have history and experience with fish, thus meeting a major criteria for me. I know I personally have seen their trucks all over town making deliveries.
So, I was tickled pink to meet Adam Martin, Sales Representative at Seattle Fish Company, at one of my Test Kitchen events. He offered to give me a tour of Seattle Fish Company. I jumped at the chance when he emailed me a couple of weeks later and we began searching for a day when we could both make the date work.
The day of my scheduled visit, I went with Chef Erin Reynolds Brown who owns Dolce Baking Co. She is the second biggest seafood lover I know, and she had an interest in making the fish connection for her future consumption needs. Clever girl. We got lost a couple of times with all of the construction down there, but eventually found ourselves in the right spot.
We were told by Adam that the room they store and do all the fish processing would be cold and that we should wear closed-toe shoes and bring a coat, hat and gloves. Upon arriving, we were also given white lab coats and ball caps to wear to protect our heads and once we were suited up and looking about as stylish as you might imagine, the tour began. (I was just happy to see no hairnets were produced.)
As Adam displays this Mahi-mahi in this video you get a sense of a large room filled with box after box of ice with fresh fish buried in it waiting to be processed. It was freezing cold in this room, so the ice does not melt from the fish. I can't tell you how glad I was to have had on every layer of clothing I did.
Jacquie Brockhoff, Regional Sales Manager, joined Adam on our tour, and they both added much to my knowledge about how Kansas City can actually get fresh not flash frozen, but fresh fish shipped to us from all over the world daily.
The fish come to the Seattle Fish Company facility in Kansas City after a short pit stop in one of the 4 major cities that are considered to be the "fish hubs" for the US: Los Angeles, Miami, Boston and Seattle. All the fish that is shipped for US consumption from elsewhere in the world typically comes to us through one of these major seafood cities. To give you an idea of the timeline of how this all works, here's how Scott Godke, GM of Seattle Fish Company, explained it to me.
In Hawaii, in the wee hours of the morning, the tuna fishermen bring their boats to dock and begin unloading their haul to be sold or auctioned off at the Hawaii fish market. Scott has a sales broker he works with who is on the ground at the fish market in Hawaii. He checks out the fish available, looks at the order of what Scott is ready to buy, calls and confirms if he personally has found the tuna needed to fulfill the order or not. The fresh fish is then packed in boxes with frozen gel pads and put on the first commercial airplane headed for the mainland. After, a brief stop in Los Angeles, the fish then continues on to KCI where they land at 9:00 pm our time. Seattle Fish Company has a crew that collects all of the fish that were expected from the airport and races it back to their facility for processing and to fulfill their orders. They process the fish through the night and are delivering the fish to the Chef's specifications by 9:00 am the next morning when he opens his doors to prep for the day. This fish has never been frozen through this process. It is fresh fish.
Most independent restaurants in town prefer their fish to arrive at their restaurant whole, (based on some of Adam's measurements in the video, these are not small fish) sometimes they get them minus the head, while many chain restaurants prefer to have their fish prepped to their corporate specs and delivered as fillets. Seattle Fish Company is happy to deliver the fish any way the restaurants or stores need it. It is this service that sets them apart from some of the other companies in this business.
They use commercial airlines to ship the fish because of the good price they get, and most of the fish Seattle Fish Company gets comes to us on Southwest Airlines. He said the only time they really get into trouble flying their fish commercially is around Valentine's Day, when all of the fresh flowers are shipped as gifts to loved ones. Apparently, the rules are fresh flowers trump fresh fish only around Valentine's Day because of the tremendous volume they do during that time.
Also, Lobsters are the only seafood that comes into the airport that never sees the inside of their processing facility. It goes straight from the airport to the restaurant to ensure freshness and quality. Afterall, there is no prep work involved in live lobsters.
So, who tends to be the pickiest buyers of fish in Kansas City? Well, I am sure all the restaurants are looking for the best quality in their fish, but Sushi Chefs take the cake. Their deep knowledge of, and needs for, certain kinds of sushi grade quality fish, make them a difficult account for an American-based fish company to land. Seattle Fish Company is proud to serve many Sushi Chefs in the Kansas City area. Listen below to Adam talking about the different kinds of salmon and which ones the sushi Chefs in town prefer.
Our tour ended with a very brief stop in their dry good area and then we headed back inside to ask a few more questions while Adam was to select and prepare some of the fish we had just seen on the floor. Over a hot plate in their break room, I have to imagine, Adam managed to cook up a nice piece of flounder and a piece of the striped bass, that Jonathan Justus buys from them to serve in his restaurant, Justus Drugstore, in a little butter, salt and pepper. It was a delightful well earned treat after thinking about nothing but seafood for the last two hours.
Scallops both wet and dry were cooked and presented to us to try, and the dry scallops that had not been treated with preservatives was so much sweeter. I quickly made a note to always eat "dry" scallops. They even provided a nice sample of their own branded smoked salmon, which was delicious and very easy on the salt and the smokey flavor. I loved it.
It wasn't until Erin and I left Seattle Fish Company, that we realized we smelled "fishy". Everything from our hair to our clothing was bathed in a smell that we had not noticed while we were there, but was shockingly noticeable in the light of day we walked back out into. A heady new perfume we nick-named "essence de la mer."
As we offered our thank you's to our new friends at The Seattle Fish Company, I asked Jacquie to please tell me where, in her opinion, the good people of Kansas City could find the best seafood selection. Without hesitation, she said to go see Paul at Cosentino's Market in Brookside. She says he is the most passionate man in town about his fish, and he gets his shipments daily from Seattle Fish Company because of the volume and the large selection he sells. I stopped by there the other night to see what I thought of the seafood counter and hoping for a chance to meet, Paul, who I had missed that night. The fish counter looked amazing, with at least 6 kinds of fish, some whole fish, mussels, clams, local caviar, squid and whole fresh sardines.
No worries, now that I know where to find the best fish in town and the best fish guy, I'll be back.

